The large (open palm sized) puke of oil at the gas station near Parachute on the way to Noab last summer was an eye opener (a long freeway day). My big picture is getting this clutch through the season. There are lot of different types of sealers, gasket tack, RTV etc.I have about 7 tubes/jars of different stuff, and am still learning what applications I like using what types.Here is one simple summary: There is nothing fun about replacing a RMS - the old rope style seals are even more fun getting them.really, this should be done once during assembly - I don't know that doing it in vehicle will ever work perfectly, but if your loosing lots of oil then it will certainly help and keep it driveable.If you are trying to stop an annoying but meaningless drip on the floor, I wouldn't bank on much improvement.but you got it done and learned something.hell, I just installed my intake for the 3rd time in 8months and my valve covers for the 3rd time as well, re-inspected my quadrajet again (and made a great improvment), and I am still learning and the jeep is hopefully getting better and yet its nowhere near decent.but then again thats why I buy old POS's.My new philosophy with the willys is it doesn't really matter - just BTFO of it when necessary and don't be afraid to rip it apart and eff it up - its just an old jeep! Then a 180 degree turn for the other area. I'll then turn the crank 90deg to inspect the sealing surface from damage I might have inflicted - repairing / smoothing as needed. I'll now tighten to spec (80 Ft-Lbs in a 40/70/80 Ft-Lbs step-up - via Jeep service manual) the loosened main bearing bolts. Needle nose pliers and it readily slipped out of the channel. A couple small hits and I was at the end of pushing it with a punch. It took about three or four solid, heavy hits (more force than I would have anticipated) - but it moved. I grabbed the original larger diameter punch as I could see the U-channel and know I wasn't going to be hitting against the block. I stayed away from the "unclear" end of the seal and figured I'd try punching the broken-punch-end of the seal again. I grabbed a pry bar and gently pried fore and aft on the end - it moved a bit. I felt the broken punch end again and the broken section felt that it had come out a bit. While I did hit a time or two at the difficult to tell end of the seal I wasn't satisfied hitting at that end - am I hitting the seal or the block. I did have a clear view of the U-channel at the broken-punch side. In the end - I wasn't able to get a clear view of that side. I wanted a clear view of the U-Channel the seal rides in - where can I place the punch so that I know it's not resting / hitting the block. I don't know if the C/S moved much.įrom there I worked to clean up the other end of the seal / block area. I also pressed the clutch in as my mind thought it could hinder the crankshaft from easily moving outward from the block (to give some space to allow the upper seal to move / broken punch to be removed). I then, gently, pried the crankshaft "out" of the block at cyls 6 and 5. I went with Sam's advice to lower the crankshaft by loosening all of the main bearing bolts 1.5 to 2 turns (13 turns is full removal).
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